West Highland Way Day 7: Kinlochleven -> Ft William

Day 7: Kinlochleven to Ft William

After yesterday’s hero’s journey, Nancy reluctantly decided to take today to rest and stay off her feet. With the bulk of the mileage and the major accomplishment of the 19-miler behind us, it was decided that I could knock out the final stretch solo.

Today’s route was a solid climb to start, and then the first half of the day along the floor of a high valley watched over by soaring Highland peaks, with dramatic, mercurial lighting keeping things interesting. For the first time there was some actual weather, so I finally got to put on my rain pants. (Was going to be most disappointed if I’d carried them every day and never had the opportunity to use them.)

During a break, as I was trying to figure out how to keep my sandwich dry between gusts of blustery Scottish rain and kitted out in just about all the warm and waterproof gear I had brought with me, a trio of local gents in their I dunno early 60s sauntered by wearing shorts and cotton t-shirts with no packs or water — keep in mind I was at least 5 miles from any possible trailhead at that point and it was about 50 degrees and actively raining. They weren’t unprepared, they knew exactly the route and the forecast, they just dinnea give a shit. Just absolutely typical. The difference in physique, age, technical gear investment and prep levels between tourist thru-hikers and more local folks is fairly dramatic, and the locals have endless wellsprings of endurance and goodcheer. It would be aggravating if they weren’t so encouraging and charming all the goddamn time.

After turning out of the valley the rest of the day was basically winding towards and then down around the bulk Ben Nevis, who remained a huge presence for the rest of the afternoon. He’s really quite an impressive hunk of rock. It was a fun trail with lots of little ups and downs before a long, reasonably-graded descent into Ft William, where Nancy was waiting with a warm welcome at our adorable B&B.